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Burberry Prorsum Autumn/Winter 2012-13

Burberry show - In sports, they speak of an athlete being in the zone, when the game is at its peak. At Burberry's fall 2012 collection, the house's chief creative officer Christopher Bailey was more in the zone than any other designer so far in the current international season.

It acted as the official announcement of some of London's trends - herringbone tweeds, stripes and the new emphasis on the hips, for starters - but then there were cute grey T-shirts with owls or partridge sketched on them, later reappearing in jewelled applique versions on nubbly oversized knits that looked gorgeous to snuggle up in once you'd peeled yourself free of skinny pencil skirts - featuring a pretty spiral ruffle up the front, some edged in gold zips - and with a matching cropped bomber.

Country-living was key - tweed caps, cord skirts with flippy hems, belts, bags and even umbrella handles featured gold fox faces - and while some people expressed surprise at Burberry's summery collection for last (well, this...), autumn/winter, this one was right on the money when it came to the weather - olive, burgundy, plum, mustard, brown in every shade - it was sumptuous in colour and texture.

Jackets and coats in panels of tweed, cord and the signature Burberry mac fabric were fitted above their gathered, elasticated belts - with sweet bows at the front - and ballooned into bulging pockets or undulating peplums beneath and there was none of the beaded, homespun feel of last season. This was grown-up and inclusive - roomy woollen skirts came beneath blousy, full-sleeved white cotton shirts that will look good on more than just sample size models - bravo Burberry.

This house undoubtedly makes a mean coat – double-breasted and featuring plenty of gold metalwear for buttons and zips, they're hard to beat - and Cara Delevingne's closing shot in a dark purple belted quilted princess version was formal and gorgeous; next stop the Duchess of Cambridge (we wish).

Big bags are back - almost hexagonal and handheld, or smooth leather doctor versions - they'll fit all the cash you need to buy these clothes - to be worn with ribbed tights and lace up stiletto boots. Applique lace appeared later for more peplum skirts and to give a feminine flourish to the same bomber shaped jackets. Dark floral printed dresses with round necks and suede bows at each shoulder softened the mood again before shimmering raffia stripes of indigo and black added a touch of sparkle.

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Written By: borsky serdch -

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